How I (Almost) Conquered the Camino de Santiago in Two Days — And Learned the Hard Way It’s a Lie
- Sam Burden
- May 25
- 4 min read
I arrived in Santiago de Compostela a day before my grand “two-day Camino” attempt, full of optimism, energy, and, well… reckless ambition. After stepping off the plane, I caught the €1 bus 6A from the airport straight into the city centre. It was a smooth start, and my hostel that night was buzzing with international hikers, all gearing up for the famous pilgrimage. The air was electric with excitement, and I was convinced I’d take on the legendary Camino de Santiago fast — faster than most, in just two days.
Although I’m not religious, the Camino de Santiago offered me a unique challenge and a beautifully alternative way to spend a holiday. It’s less about faith and more about personal achievement, stunning nature, and connecting with fellow travellers. Plus, the nearby cities of Santiago de Compostela and La Coruña are fantastic to explore either before or after your walk — full of history, culture, and delicious food. It’s the perfect blend of adventure and relaxation for a short break with a difference.
The Two-Day Lie (Or How I Got Fooled by Blogs)
Most people take a week or more to walk from Pontevedra to Santiago, covering around 37 miles at a comfortable pace. But after digging through multiple blogs, I found one particularly inspiring (or delusional) post claiming to do it in two days. “22 miles on day one, 15 miles on day two — piece of cake!” they said. I’m a medium-fit person, reasonably active, and the route looked mostly flat, so I thought: why not?
Now, having actually done it, I realise that those glowing accounts grossly underestimate the physical and mental toll. I think some bloggers maybe conveniently gloss over the pain and blisters, or possibly have superhuman feet.
Day 1: The Train, The Blessing, The Start of My Folly
Bright and early the next morning, I hopped on a train from Santiago to Pontevedra to start the walk. Before setting off, I stopped by Igrexa de Santa María de Alba, where Priest Carlos María gave me a warm smile, a few kind words, and a blessing — which I desperately needed.
Around two hours in, I took a break for lunch at a little spot serving vegetarian Galician lentil soup, crusty bread, and strong coffee. The kind of simple, hearty meal that feels like fuel for a warrior.
The route was beautiful — lush greenery stretching out under a flat sky. I saw loads of cyclists and fellow walkers passing by, shouting “Buen Camino!” at me. Not quite knowing how to respond, I just said “Ola” — which later felt embarrassingly clueless once I met an American couple who kindly explained the proper Camino greeting etiquette.
The Painful Truth About Day 1 (And Rookie Mistakes)
Here’s where the problems started:
The last 10 miles to Padrón had no water or toilets. None. Zilch. When nature called, I had no choice but to squat behind bushes (not exactly the pilgrimage glory I imagined).
I’d foolishly not broken in my hiking boots before this trip. By the time I reached Caldas de Reis (about halfway), my feet were screaming. I stuffed my boots in my backpack and switched to sandals for the remaining miles — a decision my feet paid dearly for.
The path was still beautiful, but my pace slowed as blisters grew and fatigue hit.
The Hostel Lockout Nightmare at 10:30 PM
After 13+ hours on the trail, I finally rolled into Padrón — but at 10:30 PM, utterly exhausted and in pain. To make matters worse, I couldn’t get into my hostel. I’d missed their messages with entry codes and instructions. Panic set in.
Thankfully, the restaurant next door came to the rescue. The staff barely spoke English but showed endless kindness and patience, calming me down and helping me figure out what to do next. Moments like that — the friendliness of locals and pilgrims alike — truly make the Camino special.
Day 2: Tears, No Walking, And The Train Back to Santiago
My plan was to hike the last 15 miles from Padrón to Santiago. But my feet were wrecked. By three-quarters through day one, I was already crying in pain and delirious from exhaustion. Walking the next day? Impossible.
So instead, I caught the train back to Santiago, feeling defeated but far wiser. The dream of a triumphant arrival at the cathedral was postponed — at least until I’m better prepared.
Plan Your Route in Manageable Chunks
Here’s what I’d recommend if you want to walk from Pontevedra to Santiago:
Day 1: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis (approx. 13 miles)
Day 2: Caldas de Reis to Padrón (approx. 11 miles)
Day 3: Padrón to Milladoiro (approx. 9 miles)
Day 4: Milladoiro to Santiago (approx. 5 miles)
My Recommendations If You’re Planning the Camino
Don’t believe anyone telling you you can do this in two days unless you’re a superhero. Plan at least 4–5 days to properly enjoy and respect the journey.
Break in your hiking boots well before you start. Trust me, sandals on a 10-mile stretch without water are a nightmare.
Bring enough water and snacks, especially for long stretches without facilities.
Learn the Camino greetings: “Buen Camino” is the magic phrase. Don’t be like me and just say “Ola.”
Prepare for the unexpected — weather changes, late arrivals, and yes, getting locked out of your hostel.
Most importantly, soak in the kindness of other hikers and locals. Their smiles, encouragement, and little acts of kindness will carry you far more than any blog post ever could.
Final Thoughts: The Camino Is Not a Race
I set out to conquer the Camino de Santiago in two days. Instead, I learned humility, patience, and the value of pacing myself. This pilgrimage is a journey of the body, mind, and soul — not a speed challenge.
Next time, I’ll break the route into manageable chunks, wear properly broken-in boots, and take my time. And I’ll cherish the laughter, tears, and friendships along the way.
Buen Camino — just don’t rush it like I did.
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